i often make plans for the menus my someday restaurant will serve. i picture somewhere light and airy. i'll get there boneachingly early and bake off breads. we'll serve coffee and tea with breakfast. i'll learn names. read newspapers. the smell of the sea will come in through the open door. at dinner, i'll serve seafood. northern american cuisine.
like this. i've been thinking about this soup ever since i came across daniel boulud's chilled pea soup. this is a variant on it, an adulteration - i'm not heavy into sweet things and the natural sugars of the vegetables leave this to be very gently but definitely sweet to the taste without the addition of the wasabi. adding the heat component helps to really round out the flavors.
plus, i just really love horseradish.
the house is coming together slowly. moving in is a glacial process - relearning how and where to do things. new hiding spots, new secrets. i'm hanging art on the walls this time. gave the cat a name. the specific area is boerum hill, a small, quiet neighborhood nestled between cobble hill and prospect heights. it's lined with trees and brownstones, neighborhood parks, cafes, hipsters, indie shops. basically, everything you'd ever want from brooklyn. i'm more in love with it all the time.
1/4 cup carrot, diced
1/4 cup celery, diced
1/2 cup onion, diced
1/2 cup parsley
1 lb. sugar snap peas, sliced thinly
1 lb. sweet peas
5 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
1 oz canola oil
1/4 cup prepared horseradish
2 tbsp wasabi
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tbsp creme fraiche
1/2 tbsp salt
pepper to taste
spring pea shoots to top (optional)
step 1: blanch and shock the peas.
bring a large pot of salted water to boil. set up a large mixing bowl with ice water. to the boiling water, add the sugar snap peas and sweet peas. cook 2-3 minutes, until tender. remove with a slotted spoon or a spider and immediately place in ice bath. add the parsley to the boiling water, cook 20 sec, or until bright green. remove and add to ice bath. set all aside.
step 2: cook the vegetables
heat oil in a large stockpot over med-high heat. add the mirepoix (carrot, celery, and onion) with a pinch of salt and sweat, stirring often and without browning, for about five minutes. add stock and simmer 15 minutes.
meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine heavy cream, garlic, wasabi, and horseradish. bring to a quick boil and reduce to simmer for 5-6 or until reduced by 1/3.
step 3: combine
there are two methods for this.
1) add peas, sugar snap peas, parsley, and cream mixture to the broth-filled stockpot. use an immersion blender to puree until smooth.
2) add peas, sugar snap peas, and parsley to a food processor or blender with two cups of the broth. puree. add cream and remaining broth. pulse until combined and puree until smooth.
chill and serve with a drizzle of creme fraiche on top and a sprig of pea shoots.
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